"Ah, but a man's reach should exceed his grasp -- or what's a heaven for?"
Robert Browning

I went to Italy with this quote on my mind…my husband’s favorite quote to be exact. I thought a lot about this for the time I was away with the intention of finding its meaning. I went to Italy to learn Italian, visit the great works of art and significant historical places and to say goodbye to my husband who passed away October 2006. These entries are from my daily journal.

Day One…Wednesday, August 1, 2007
Arrived at Newark Airport 3 hours early. Darn! I forgot to exchange currency outside the gating area so I realized I’d have to do it in Italy. My biggest concern was my desperate need to find a safety pin for my new blouse which would not stay closed. I guess it was a sign that I was ready for anything. I felt relaxed if not a little sad to be traveling without Pat.

Day Two… Thursday, August 2, 2007
Arrived in Rome less than 8 hours after leaving the US. Tired but in good spirits. The FDU group I traveled with was great. After a three hour bus ride though Tuscany, most of which I slept though, I finally got to see a few fields of wheat, sunflowers and old villas just before arriving in Florence. The colors my sister painted her house were in reality the colors of Tuscany! I walked around the piazza of Florence’s main district after dragging luggage through rough, stone streets to a hotel that was a four-story walkup if you didn’t take the claustrophobic elevator. Hotel Villani is a family run operation, officiated by Signore Villani, chief cook and cappuccino maker. I was grateful my tiny room was clean.

Day Three... Friday, August 3, 2007
I awoke at 5:30am every day to read my Bible and several books, exercise in a cramped space, shower and arrive for my daily cappuccino or doppia espresso promptly at 8 am. Each morning I spoke to Signore Villani in Italian and English. Well, not much Italian, but I learned a lot about Florence through our conversations. After a quick breakfast, I would rush out to get to know Florence on my own before returning for daily Italian lessons with Professoressa Spina. I was trying too hard to figure out the logic of the language so my frustration showed in class. I saw Dante’s House, Piazza Della Signore, and statues by Donatello, Cellini, as well as the Ponte Vecchio. I bought new watercolors, brushes and paper at a tiny art store and painted for several hours. I also rediscovered gelato. Amazing.

Day Four... Saturday, August 4, 2007
Every night I slept with my window wide open so each morning I would wake up to the smell of breakfast cooking and the bells of the Florence Cathedral. I could hear the restaurant below preparing for the day at 6 am. I ran up and down the bell tower as fast as I could for some cardio and visited Santa Maria Novella, the Riccardi Medici Palace and the Church of San Lorenzo. Angelo Spina, Italian Culture professor talked about the Ponte Vecchio, the fashion district and the rustic architecture. I found a bakery and fruit market that I visited almost everyday for lunch.

Day Five... Sunday, August 5, 2007
I saw David! It literally took my breath away when I turned the corner. I had no idea he would be so tall. It was a first experience I will never forget. I only wish Pat could have seen it with me. I also saw several Botticelli paintings (Madonna of the Sea) and the Barbarini Pieta by Michelangelo. I went into the Baptistry and the Medici Chapel. I walked from 9 to 6 and could barely stand by evening. I had one bad meal the entire trip. Twenty euro for a salad and bread soup which was a weird mix of beans, vegetables and soaked bread. NO thanks. I found the best place for bruschetta and had that several nights in a row. I finished the day by going through the entire Palazzo Vecchio.

Day Six... Monday, August 6, 2007
Pisa! The tower was like an image from a postcard. I went through the cathedral, Baptistry and museum where I found some 11th Century illuminated manuscripts. Bella!

Day Seven... Tuesday, August 7, 2007
Uffizi! What an incredible experience. I spent 3 hours traversing the rooms and saw works by Giotto, Massacio, Cimabue and Duccio – all early Christian art. Botticelli’s Primavera and Birth of Venus were amazing, but best of all was Michelangelo’s’ Holy Family. You couldn’t even see brush strokes – it was perfect. Went to see “David” again and got the chance to sketch him. Great day.

Day Eight... Wednesday, August 8, 2007
Up at 4 am and off by 6am to Venice. I went to Pat’s and my hotel, Il Bauer Palazzo and was able to visit many of the places we were at last year. It felt like he would turn the corner at any moment. I went to San Marco, Ca Rezzonico (Robert Browning’s House and Pat’s favorite place on the trip) and finally to the Peggy Guggenheim museum where I saw works by Picasso, Braque, Giacometti, Calder and Rothko. The day was sad but cathartic. We had to take a 3 hour detour over the Appian Mountains on the way home. Thank goodness I was with Kevin and Nancy Pianfetti, who gave me a verbal crash course on wine. We were also entertained by Katelyn and Lauren from FDU which helped pass the time.

Day Nine... Thursday, August 9, 2007
I walked up the steps of the Florence Cathedral Dome; all 463 of them. Going down was tricky because it was a one-way stairwell and people were climbing up as I was trying to hurry down to get to my Italian class on time! I visited the Church at Santa Croce and its museum and saw the mausoleums of Machiavelli and Michelangelo, as well as beautiful frescoes by Giotto. I also went to the Church of Santa Maria Novella, home of Masaccio's fresco, The Trinity. This painting set the Renaissance world on fire with the introduction of two point perspective. We traveled to Sienna, a medieval Etruscan city. I saw Cimabue’s crucifixion which was horribly damaged in 1966 but resurrected to much of its former beauty.

Day Ten…... Friday, August 10, 2007
We went to the Palazzo Pitti where I discovered the Macchioli art collection of Italian impressionistic works by Fattori, Signorini and others. My final stop was at Santa Maria del Carmine and the Brancacci Chapel where the frescoes of Masaccio and Mausaleo are still vibrant and intact even after a terrible fire threatened to destroy them.

Day Eleven... Saturday, August 11, 2007
I finished my visit of Florence by going to the Bargello and seeing Donatello’s David and the Baptistry Competition panels by Brunelleschi and Ghiberti. I was thrilled to see the David up close even though he was being restored and was lying on his side amidst computers and x-ray machines. My final stop was at Casa Buonarotti, where Michelangelo’s nephew preserved many drawings, sketches and sculptures by the great Master. That was one of my favorite stops and will be first on my next trip to Florence.

Day Twelve... Sunday, August 12, 2007
Up at 4am to leave by 5 for the Florence Airport. We arrived safely at Newark airport on Sunday afternoon. Arrivederci Italia. Until next time.